Friday, May 29, 2009

SAVOR CHANTERELLES




Summer is Chanterelle season. The season generally sweeps the globe, beginning with the winter thaw. Eastern Europe's forests are carpeted in small, nearly uniform chanterelles - the carpet of gold that Dorothy was really looking for.

As the thaw (and freeze and thaw and...) moves toward the U.S., we have double the reason to wander in the woods. Morel season - while on a temporary hiatus - often dovetails with the summer mushroom season. All depends upon the weather. One thing is sure; chanties produce all through the summer and into ... with the ozone's permission ... February.

Eager foragers are already reporting golden buds, amidst the little crusts of melting frost in clearings. Wait for them to grow, then clip with a knife rather than ripping out the roots. They ain't flowers, but god love 'em, they grow again and again in the same spot.

What to do once you have the chanterelles? Roast, bake, saute, grill (in foil). Go-withs include pork, ham, eggs, pasta, red meats. Just about anything you'll want to cook for the next 8 months. Dare to dream!

In other news, it's time for the annual Michigan Drive-Thru Morels. Reports from the field are so sated with pasta and morels that they are begging for more recipes. Get the book, John! To tide you over - Stuff morels w/goat cheese and herbs and bake; skewer olive-oil rubbed pieces and grill; saute up a mess 'o morels, saute with a ton of herbs, some chix stock and heavy cream, and stuff into ravioli or baby puff pastry bites (use mini muffin tins).

For tastings, recipes, seasonal updates: www.transatlanticfoods.com.

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