Thursday, March 24, 2011

Pig Heaven Is Out in My Back Yard

                  
                     Avoiding Spring Cleaning?  
   This will get you running for the grill brush.   

 Here was this gorgeous slab of the most compelling bacon sitting on my counter. It was in its primal state, rose-and-ivory striped belly that hung over the sides of my beat-up butcher block. Who could resist chunking it into little stackable Legos?  And why not marinate, skewer, and grill?

Since there were dinner-party ingredients strewn all over the counter, the marinade was of the kitchen-sink variety.  It may have included some other bits of this or that, but here is the big idea. 

                                          GRILLED BACON BROCHETTES
                                 a highly caloric balance of sweet, sour, salty and delicious
                    
Cut Aux Délices des Bois Artisanal Farmhouse Bacon (slab) into chunks, about 1 x 1 1/2 inches.  Make sure to include both meat and fat.

Stir together the marinade ingredients:
Honey
Real maple syrup
Worcestershire sauce
Lemon juice
Soy sauce
Cracked pepper   

Toss the bacon with the marinade, and marinate in the fridge for up to 2 hours.  Take out of the fridge for 15 minutes before skewering.  Grill over indirect heat.   Don't let the fat melt away! Just crisp and char and remove.

We served it as an app on baby greens, alongside squid bodies that were drenched in lemon then grilled.  The table fell silent as flavors rolled over our tongues, memorizing the sweet and sour of alternate bites. 

Needless to say, the main course was a letdown.

  More recipes for bacon.

Monday, March 14, 2011

IT'S PIE DAY

                                 PIE WARS

My dad is so fond of pie that on occasion, he'll forgo the diet to fork into a sugar-dusted, ripple-topped pie stuffed with soft, gooey apples. His most difficult separation from this fond childhood food memory was during World War II.   After so long in the trenches, V-Day brought - well, almost - sweet victory.   Jammed into the home-bound freighter, he watched stomachs heaving with the lurches and menus improving over C-rations. There was a lot of eating to catch up on.

Then one day the announcement came -- tomorrow we will have pie! 

Dad hadn't considered that his dreamed-of reunion with pie would come so soon.  The next morning, he was all anticipation.  Will it be apple?  One crust or two?  A la mode?  As lunch drew near, he edged up toward the front of the line.  Lunch would be quick, topped off with a juicy, flaky wedge, topped with - dare he think? - a scoop of vanilla.

The pie was pizza pie.

Which he never really liked.

Now every day is a new opportunity for pie, whether pumpkin, apple, chocolate, blueberry or peach.  It's all the same, when you've paid your dues to your country.  

Here's a pie recipe Dad approves of, from my book, The Mushroom Lover's Mushroom Cookbook and Primer.   Plum Tart with Walnut Crust 

SHOPPING LIST: MILK, PASTA, BLACK TRUFFLES

          Local Black Winter Truffles Coming to a Supermarket Near You

Last week's National Truffle Fest in Asheville, NC was an eye opener. Knowing that Black Winter Truffles are already available in markets around the US, I figured, so what's new?


Lots.  The southeast region of the US produces homegrown, American-born black truffles. Franklin Garland spearheaded this agricultural enterprise 20 years ago. Tilling former tobacco-growing fields, he planted inoculated filbert trees with black truffle spore.  Now, hundreds of acres are planted in NC, VA, and KY, as well as in CA.  Black Winter Truffles are being harvested, with the crop growing a little more bountiful every year.


Presentations at the Fest explored agricultural, economic, and logistical aspects of growing for the long term.  Truffle trees take at least 4 years to produce truffles, and even then, a harvest is a crapshoot.  Overheard at the forum: which  dogs dig best, micro pigs, tree fungus, and other tightly guarded trade secrets.


Not all attendees were growers.  Gourmands made a beeline to the Grand Bohemian Hotel (an adventure unto itself, with its Austrian hunting lodge theme) to get the inside scoop on the local truffle scene and to enjoy truffles in a variety of menus. Tastings covered truffles with wine, restaurant tours and meals, and multi-course splendors provided by high-profile, local and visiting chefs.  And oh, I taught a cooking class with wild mushroom and truffle recipes from my book, The Mushroom Lover's Mushroom Cookbook and Primer (Workman 2000).

The event was hosted by the North American Truffle Growers' Association (NATGA) and organized as a fundraiser for the Frankie Lemmon Foundation, which supports special needs children.