Q Why does Francois look worried?

A He picked more than he can cook tonight.

If you're as lucky as Francois, you will have enough Hen of the Woods for your whole neighborhood. Or - hide them in the garage and sneak out under cover of night so nobody knows what a windfall you got.

October is bookended with my two favorite H words : Hen of the Woods and Halloween. As soon as I tear off the first page of this month's calendar, I start dreaming about the harvest. Although this wild mushroom is also cultivated, we love to plunge our noses into the large bouquets growing in the woods. Its perfume is heady and intoxicating.

The Japanese are such big fans of maitake ("dancing mushroom" for the jig of delight when discovering them) that they have enormous commercial farms. It could be said that maitake is a commodity product in Japan. We acted as consultants with a couple of these agribusinesses who wanted to grow them here. US demand for this particular variety was not strong enough, so in the off season most of what you'll find in stores is the Japanese import.

So get out there in the woods and get lucky like Francois did! (Bring an expert or have one look at them before eating). Hens are so big and obvious that finding them will literally be no more than "a walk in the woods". Sauté them in spiced bacon lardons for a wilted greens salad. Roast them whole like Tom Colicchio does and serve on a bed of truffle mashed potatoes (more than mashed: puree them if you have time). Crumble and stuff into ravioli or a big fat hen. Go Japanese and simmer in broth to make an ultra-delicious soup.

There are many reasons to eat maitake, but there are also health/nutrition/pharmaceutical reasons to consume them. Studies have shown positive effects on the immune system; cancer research has had hopeful results; and nutritional supplements have their followers.

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I was planning short ribs for dinner, and couldn't think of what type of sauce I was in the mood for. Sometimes you crave a certain flavor in the morning, and by lunchtime you changed your mind. That was my day. Asian greens in the morning, chipotle spice in the afternoon. Finally, with barely time (3 hours cooking) to get them underway, a lightbulb went on. Why not check in my cookbook (a little shameless promo here)? Now the ribs are perfuming my kitchen, simmering with dried black trumpets and fresh buttons. The mushroom soaking liquid's in there, along w/canned beef broth, a hefty dose of red wine, some fresh herbs, and a small jar of my own canned tomatoes. Can't wait to eat.